The worst new restaurant in Centro award of 2012 goes to 2012. Congratulations. I and four friends recently broke out of our mold and tried a new place that was recommended by our yoga teacher. A new vegetarian restaurant in centro in a nice clean almost pretty setting. Despite the fact that there were 5 waiters for our table and only one other couple in the restaurant at the lunch hour our meal was a total disaster from beginning to end. There was not one tasty dish. As we had a chance to glance at the trash as it was carried through the dining room we understood why. All of the sauces came out of a box or can and even the "fresh" chaya juice was made with boxed pineapple juice. After a year of raising chickens and rabbits I'm on the edge of becoming a vegetarian but this experience does not advance the cause!
2012 Espacios Mayas y Algo Mas
Calle 62 x 55 & 57
Centro Historico
Merida
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
I've seen Wurst
I noticed a couple of weeks a go that a beer hall has opened across the street from Marlin Azul on Calle 62 x 57 & 59 called La Bierhaus. This is the second location opened by Jurgen in Merida but the other is el norte the area of town one only need visit to go to the cinema or for Sushi at Miyabi. I'm going to go to happy hour from 5-9 and see just how happy they can make me one day this week (or next).
also
My young friend Dagmar told me that the new owners of Mayan Pub are French and they have upgraded the menu and serve decent food. I doubt I'll ever experience that but it's good to know. Update: I went to La Bierhaus stand at the Polo Club and had a delicious bratwurst and beer. With that introduction I ventured into La Bierhaus after church hopping on Good Friday. I was with my friends from Paris one of whom was Austrian. We all enjoyed it and the old house is really beautiful. I'm not rushing back but I'll go again. The list of beers is pretty impressive for the Yucatan.
also
My young friend Dagmar told me that the new owners of Mayan Pub are French and they have upgraded the menu and serve decent food. I doubt I'll ever experience that but it's good to know. Update: I went to La Bierhaus stand at the Polo Club and had a delicious bratwurst and beer. With that introduction I ventured into La Bierhaus after church hopping on Good Friday. I was with my friends from Paris one of whom was Austrian. We all enjoyed it and the old house is really beautiful. I'm not rushing back but I'll go again. The list of beers is pretty impressive for the Yucatan.
Saturday, February 11, 2012
Seafood
Centro
Marlin Azul
El Cangrejito - tacos
Hotel Zone
La Pigua
Muelle Ocho
North
Pez Gordo- tacos
Miyabi-sushi
Silver Fish
There once was an "American" restaurant in centro called Claps and the owners didn't understand why there were never any North Americans eating there...I've never been to the restaurant called Silverfish....but I've heard it's good.
It's been over a year since I've been to La Pigua or Muelle Ocho. I get my fish fix at Marlin Azul and Miyabi every week. I've said enough about these places elsewhere on my blogs. You can try anywhere out on the beach...it's all the same rancid oil as far as I can tell.
Marlin Azul
El Cangrejito - tacos
Hotel Zone
La Pigua
Muelle Ocho
North
Pez Gordo- tacos
Miyabi-sushi
Silver Fish
There once was an "American" restaurant in centro called Claps and the owners didn't understand why there were never any North Americans eating there...I've never been to the restaurant called Silverfish....but I've heard it's good.
It's been over a year since I've been to La Pigua or Muelle Ocho. I get my fish fix at Marlin Azul and Miyabi every week. I've said enough about these places elsewhere on my blogs. You can try anywhere out on the beach...it's all the same rancid oil as far as I can tell.
Mediterranean Diet in Centro
If you care about pizza then you should head over to Rafaello's off the corner of 60 x 51 sometimes surly service which you can just overlook because the pizza is real southern Italian made in a wood burning oven by a real southern Italian...they deliver too if you just can take abusive service.
If you care less about pizza then you should try the new Oliva on the corner of 56 x 49. Everyone raving about the home made pasta from a Roman chef. Informal small dining room and take out dishes for groups of 4 or 6 are a great option for eating at home.
If you need pizza and pasta you can try the newest location of La Tratto on the corner of calle 55 x 60. Here the service is friendly and you can dine under the stars and giant trees in Santa Lucia park. Go on Thursday if you want to see the Serenata Yucateca. It's basically south beach Miami atmosphere with american style food for the richie rich locals. Happy Hour at the bar is the place to get your feet wet.
If your thinking of buying or renting a house then you should try Rescoldos a "Mediterranean Bistro"
on Calle 62 x 41 & 43. The owners are Greek/Canadian and it's a popular hangout for the expat community. The food is heavier here than with the Italians at Rafaello or Oliva but more home made than the factory line food served at La Tratto.
Some people have enjoyed their pasta at Trattoria La Pasta but I've not had the pleasure. It's on Paseo Montejo x 39 & 41. I just never eat Pasta in restaurants unless I'm given no choice...
Now if you only care about eating Italian food and you want to do the Yucatecan tour of Italian restaurants owned by Italian I will give you the list of the most popular places where you have the best chances of authentic cuisine...
Osteria Picolli is the newest and maybe the best place to start on the Prolongacion Montejo.
Villa Italia is well established and has it's loyal followers on the weekends it may be hard to book.
Piola is far out near City Center
Vite Da Bruno in the nearby suburb of colonia Mexico
If you care less about pizza then you should try the new Oliva on the corner of 56 x 49. Everyone raving about the home made pasta from a Roman chef. Informal small dining room and take out dishes for groups of 4 or 6 are a great option for eating at home.
If you need pizza and pasta you can try the newest location of La Tratto on the corner of calle 55 x 60. Here the service is friendly and you can dine under the stars and giant trees in Santa Lucia park. Go on Thursday if you want to see the Serenata Yucateca. It's basically south beach Miami atmosphere with american style food for the richie rich locals. Happy Hour at the bar is the place to get your feet wet.
If your thinking of buying or renting a house then you should try Rescoldos a "Mediterranean Bistro"
on Calle 62 x 41 & 43. The owners are Greek/Canadian and it's a popular hangout for the expat community. The food is heavier here than with the Italians at Rafaello or Oliva but more home made than the factory line food served at La Tratto.
Some people have enjoyed their pasta at Trattoria La Pasta but I've not had the pleasure. It's on Paseo Montejo x 39 & 41. I just never eat Pasta in restaurants unless I'm given no choice...
Now if you only care about eating Italian food and you want to do the Yucatecan tour of Italian restaurants owned by Italian I will give you the list of the most popular places where you have the best chances of authentic cuisine...
Osteria Picolli is the newest and maybe the best place to start on the Prolongacion Montejo.
Villa Italia is well established and has it's loyal followers on the weekends it may be hard to book.
Piola is far out near City Center
Vite Da Bruno in the nearby suburb of colonia Mexico
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Seafood in Centro
El Cangrejito
57 x 64 y 66
The little crab is the name of this, the best, seafood taco stand in the world. Well maybe. The owner can be a crab too but lately he has been awfully friendly. Don't let him scare you. Sit down order a beer and ask for one or two of everything. That will make him happy and then you can decide what you like. Don't be offended if he serves his loyal clientel before he sneers at you. I never sat in the back room until a couple of weeks ago. It is a treasure trove of kitsch and it takes the edge off the wait for your food. The best things to order are cherna, langousta, venado, pulpo, camarones and of course cangrejito. I don't so much like the empanzidao or the stuffed pepper that is breaded too.
June 2008 Update: I still go most weeks to El Cangrejito. It's always great. A lot of our guests who are only around for a few days can't get enough of El Cangrejito either. Save room for dessert or take some home the meringues. I love the coconut and squash seed patties as well.
June 2011 Update: Still Great!!!
Marlin Azul
62 x 57 y 59
Fish soup superb. Outstanding ceviche of octopus or shrimp or fish or mixed. I like all the tacos. Fried breaded grouper is 3 dollars and enough for 2, crispy and fresh. I like the bar on the side where you can make eye contact with the servers. The room next door has AC but the waiter is less attentive and there is a mirrored wall. I'm just beyond the point of wanting to look at myself having lunch!
June 2008 Update: I've changed my mind. They have renovated and now I love sitting in the new room with big booths and AC! I'm addicted to the ceviche. I go every week!
September 2011 Update: I still go to Marlin Azul at least once a week. Now I get flawless service after all these years and the waiters bring me my lemonade with soda (no sugar) as soon as I sit down. Still loving the friend grouper and everyone who orders it a la plancha is always jealous of mine. It's also good in the garlic sauce. A new discovery that is not on the menu is the Octopus in it's ink. It's Octopus season now and very good.
Here are two popular Seafood restaurants near centro.
La Pigua
Calle 33 no. 505 a x Avenida Cupules y 62
(near the hotel districts)
A business man's luncheon restaurant that is open from 12-6. It's pricey, it's stuffy but it's not all bad. La Pigua is reputed to be the best seafood restaurant in the Yucatan. If that is true then it is a sad state of affairs for seafood.
Is it the aquariums or the decor alone that reminds me of a shopping mall in Waco,Texas circa 1975? Don't think that the grilled items on the menu will be grilled. A la plancha means griddled to death not grilled. Go for the fried anything. Fried is always good! If you are not going out to the beach this could be as close as you'll get to the real deal. Huachinago/Snapper, Robalo/Snook,Dorado/Dolphin Fish, Boquinete/Hog Fish, Pamapno, Cazon/Baby Shark, Rubia/Yellow Tail. I've warned you about the decor and ambiance, enjoy the food....
June 2008 update: I've lowered my standards. After almost 7 years in Merida I have a higher tolerance for bad decor. I've been 4 or 5 times to La Pigua in the past month. Part of the reason is the coconut cake which is a world class dessert and should not be missed. The other reason is I discovered the Sir Frances Drake. It is a huge plate of giant chunks of seafood. It's a pile of squid, conch, octopus, fish and shrimp! I'm less impressed with the other dishes I've tried but a couple of beers, ceviche and coconut cake is enough to keep me going back week after week.
Muelle 8
Calle 21 No. 141 Col. Buenavista, tel. 944 5343
The shock of the horrid Gilligan Island decor kept me away from this seafood instituion for the past 7 years. Some Xmeridianos who now live in Oaxaca took me there last week. We had a scallop carpacio and a octopus carpacio that were better than anything I've ever been served in this town. We had a fish ceviche and a second order of scallops. Yummy.
57 x 64 y 66
The little crab is the name of this, the best, seafood taco stand in the world. Well maybe. The owner can be a crab too but lately he has been awfully friendly. Don't let him scare you. Sit down order a beer and ask for one or two of everything. That will make him happy and then you can decide what you like. Don't be offended if he serves his loyal clientel before he sneers at you. I never sat in the back room until a couple of weeks ago. It is a treasure trove of kitsch and it takes the edge off the wait for your food. The best things to order are cherna, langousta, venado, pulpo, camarones and of course cangrejito. I don't so much like the empanzidao or the stuffed pepper that is breaded too.
June 2008 Update: I still go most weeks to El Cangrejito. It's always great. A lot of our guests who are only around for a few days can't get enough of El Cangrejito either. Save room for dessert or take some home the meringues. I love the coconut and squash seed patties as well.
June 2011 Update: Still Great!!!
Marlin Azul
62 x 57 y 59
Fish soup superb. Outstanding ceviche of octopus or shrimp or fish or mixed. I like all the tacos. Fried breaded grouper is 3 dollars and enough for 2, crispy and fresh. I like the bar on the side where you can make eye contact with the servers. The room next door has AC but the waiter is less attentive and there is a mirrored wall. I'm just beyond the point of wanting to look at myself having lunch!
June 2008 Update: I've changed my mind. They have renovated and now I love sitting in the new room with big booths and AC! I'm addicted to the ceviche. I go every week!
September 2011 Update: I still go to Marlin Azul at least once a week. Now I get flawless service after all these years and the waiters bring me my lemonade with soda (no sugar) as soon as I sit down. Still loving the friend grouper and everyone who orders it a la plancha is always jealous of mine. It's also good in the garlic sauce. A new discovery that is not on the menu is the Octopus in it's ink. It's Octopus season now and very good.
Here are two popular Seafood restaurants near centro.
La Pigua
Calle 33 no. 505 a x Avenida Cupules y 62
(near the hotel districts)
A business man's luncheon restaurant that is open from 12-6. It's pricey, it's stuffy but it's not all bad. La Pigua is reputed to be the best seafood restaurant in the Yucatan. If that is true then it is a sad state of affairs for seafood.
Is it the aquariums or the decor alone that reminds me of a shopping mall in Waco,Texas circa 1975? Don't think that the grilled items on the menu will be grilled. A la plancha means griddled to death not grilled. Go for the fried anything. Fried is always good! If you are not going out to the beach this could be as close as you'll get to the real deal. Huachinago/Snapper, Robalo/Snook,Dorado/Dolphin Fish, Boquinete/Hog Fish, Pamapno, Cazon/Baby Shark, Rubia/Yellow Tail. I've warned you about the decor and ambiance, enjoy the food....
June 2008 update: I've lowered my standards. After almost 7 years in Merida I have a higher tolerance for bad decor. I've been 4 or 5 times to La Pigua in the past month. Part of the reason is the coconut cake which is a world class dessert and should not be missed. The other reason is I discovered the Sir Frances Drake. It is a huge plate of giant chunks of seafood. It's a pile of squid, conch, octopus, fish and shrimp! I'm less impressed with the other dishes I've tried but a couple of beers, ceviche and coconut cake is enough to keep me going back week after week.
Muelle 8
Calle 21 No. 141 Col. Buenavista, tel. 944 5343
The shock of the horrid Gilligan Island decor kept me away from this seafood instituion for the past 7 years. Some Xmeridianos who now live in Oaxaca took me there last week. We had a scallop carpacio and a octopus carpacio that were better than anything I've ever been served in this town. We had a fish ceviche and a second order of scallops. Yummy.
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Take Montejo North
Progresso
Elio Al Mare
calle 21 no.60 x 40 y38
01 969 935 0804
Everyone whom I trusts on matters of taste calls me the minute they discover Elio Al Mare. They obviously don't read my blog.
I've been enchanted by this place since I stumbled on it about a year ago. But each time I return, which is not often, it has been closed. I've only just gotten the phone number from a friend of a friend of the owner. The chef/owner is an Italian who had a restaurant for several years on the isla de Holbox. I don't think he's secured his license to sell liquor yet so you'll have to imagine you're sipping the perfect Greco di Tuffo with your seafood pasta. I cannot really remember what I ate a year ago but I remember being slightly stunned by the quality and a little surprised by the tab. I shall return....but I'll call first.
October 2009 They do have wine and beer now at Elio Al Mare but they are so inconsistent with there hours and closing days that I've found myself standing in front of the door stomping and screaming on too many occasions.
Saint Bonnet
Avenida Malecon x calle 28
The beach is the place to eat seafood. It's best to go when the weather is calm. When it's stormy they don't fish as they boats are tiny and they have never even heard of the life vest option. There is a new place hidden away down the beach that is owned by an Italian transplant from Holbox. Elio Al Mare is off the beaten path, thank the lord, and far from the tourist infested malecon of Progresso. Saint Bonnet is where we normally eat if we find outselves washed up on the beach in Progresso. If you go to San Bonnet, keep it simple. If you've just stumbled off a cruise ship you will most likely want to go eat, drink and scream "ariba" at Eladio's which is just a hop, skip and jump off the Pier from whence you came.
Elio Al Mare
calle 21 no.60 x 40 y38
01 969 935 0804
Everyone whom I trusts on matters of taste calls me the minute they discover Elio Al Mare. They obviously don't read my blog.
I've been enchanted by this place since I stumbled on it about a year ago. But each time I return, which is not often, it has been closed. I've only just gotten the phone number from a friend of a friend of the owner. The chef/owner is an Italian who had a restaurant for several years on the isla de Holbox. I don't think he's secured his license to sell liquor yet so you'll have to imagine you're sipping the perfect Greco di Tuffo with your seafood pasta. I cannot really remember what I ate a year ago but I remember being slightly stunned by the quality and a little surprised by the tab. I shall return....but I'll call first.
October 2009 They do have wine and beer now at Elio Al Mare but they are so inconsistent with there hours and closing days that I've found myself standing in front of the door stomping and screaming on too many occasions.
Saint Bonnet
Avenida Malecon x calle 28
The beach is the place to eat seafood. It's best to go when the weather is calm. When it's stormy they don't fish as they boats are tiny and they have never even heard of the life vest option. There is a new place hidden away down the beach that is owned by an Italian transplant from Holbox. Elio Al Mare is off the beaten path, thank the lord, and far from the tourist infested malecon of Progresso. Saint Bonnet is where we normally eat if we find outselves washed up on the beach in Progresso. If you go to San Bonnet, keep it simple. If you've just stumbled off a cruise ship you will most likely want to go eat, drink and scream "ariba" at Eladio's which is just a hop, skip and jump off the Pier from whence you came.
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Restaurants Near Mejorada & Santa Lucia
Cafe Alemeda
Calle 58 #474 between 55 and 57
This lebanese restaurant is cheap and casual. I only like to sit on the patio in the back. That is sometimes a problem. Josh likes the cabbage rolls. We always have the hummous, berenjena and taboule. Sometimes the kabobs are nice and tender and sometimes they bounce.
Cafe Club
calle 55 x 60 y 58
I go here for the fresh juices and the vegetable soup. Don't know why but I go back once or twice a week. It's my canteen but my order never varies except on the days I order french fries and change from watermelon juice to payaya with lime.
Here I never have to fight to sit on the patio.
El Templo
Calle 59 #438 x 52 y 50
Last time I checked they were not open for lunch. The working gringo's like this place alot. More than I do so I'll let them speak. I've had a couple of good meals here but always very bad service which in the end made not wish to return. But that was at lunch. We'll order a drink and if it sucks go around the corner to Meson del Segoviano.
UPATE December 1, 2011 After rave review from my friends Jim and Vija from NY I tried Templo again. The chicken in mustard and white wine sauce was undercooked but the sauce was not reduced enough and just tasted like wine had been poured into a watery stock at the last minute. The stuffed chicken breast with chipotle and cheese had a very unsavory crust and it was cream cheese which I have a hard time think of as cheese. If the food had been good I could have endured the loud pop music and the low chairs at a high table...alas the food was awful. I called Jim and he assured me that his lunch had been great and in fact his dinner the night before was catered by El Templo and was good as well. He is as finicky as I am so you'll have to take a chance on this place. Segoniano has moved to El Norte.
Casa Lucia
Santa Lucia Park
calle 60 x 55 y 53
Reminds me of alot of neighborhood restaurants in Milan from my former life in fashion. Marble and glass and laminated menus. It's not at all a bad choice for lunch. I eat there all the time. It's never been great and it's never been bad. The desserts are the only real disappointments here. They are sitting there staring at you all through your meal and they look great. They all suck. I have tried them all. They suck. I know they look really, really, really good but they allsuck. Yes the pecan pie, the chocolate layer cake, the carrot cake and even the cheesecake suck. Sorry. Have that order of fries and skip the dessert. Even the bathrooms make you feel like your in Milan.
Meson del Segoviano
calle 50-a no 443 entre 59 y 57
Plaza de Mejorada / Centro
tel 999 924 0055
I've said elsewhere it's the best restaurant downtown. I believe it is. I've been back several times this fall 2007 and I like it for lunch and I love it for dinner. Update June 2008. I still go here often when there are friends or guests in town. It's best to call first and make sure the owner/chef will be there. Sadly there are never many people here and there is basically zero buzz after you ask them to turn off the TV. But the food is real and the things I like best are croquets, sausages and the divine warm octopus & potato salad.
This restaurant closed and is now called El Segoviano. Now there are more people and more TV's and a larger menu. Zero charm but still very good food
Calle 32 no. 219 plaza 32 upstairs
San Ramon Norte
Merida
924 0055 or cell 999 163 3196
Los Alemendros
Plaza de Mejorada/Centro
This is why I link to David Sterling at Los Dos cooking school. He gives places a second chance and give them the benifit of the doubt....
Whatever... It is still an unpleasant room to eat in.
Update June 2008: I still cannot bare the thought of going back to Los Alemendros but recently some guests invited me to lunch a couple of times at La Tradition a 100% Yucatecan restaurant that I can recommend. In fact if you are at Mejorada you'd better jump in a cab right now and go there if you're looking for real Yucatecan cuisine prepared by a real chef. It's not in centro but it's not far away either.
La Tradition
calle 60 no. 293 x 25
Col. Alcala Martin
Calle 58 #474 between 55 and 57
This lebanese restaurant is cheap and casual. I only like to sit on the patio in the back. That is sometimes a problem. Josh likes the cabbage rolls. We always have the hummous, berenjena and taboule. Sometimes the kabobs are nice and tender and sometimes they bounce.
Cafe Club
calle 55 x 60 y 58
I go here for the fresh juices and the vegetable soup. Don't know why but I go back once or twice a week. It's my canteen but my order never varies except on the days I order french fries and change from watermelon juice to payaya with lime.
Here I never have to fight to sit on the patio.
El Templo
Calle 59 #438 x 52 y 50
Last time I checked they were not open for lunch. The working gringo's like this place alot. More than I do so I'll let them speak. I've had a couple of good meals here but always very bad service which in the end made not wish to return. But that was at lunch. We'll order a drink and if it sucks go around the corner to Meson del Segoviano.
UPATE December 1, 2011 After rave review from my friends Jim and Vija from NY I tried Templo again. The chicken in mustard and white wine sauce was undercooked but the sauce was not reduced enough and just tasted like wine had been poured into a watery stock at the last minute. The stuffed chicken breast with chipotle and cheese had a very unsavory crust and it was cream cheese which I have a hard time think of as cheese. If the food had been good I could have endured the loud pop music and the low chairs at a high table...alas the food was awful. I called Jim and he assured me that his lunch had been great and in fact his dinner the night before was catered by El Templo and was good as well. He is as finicky as I am so you'll have to take a chance on this place. Segoniano has moved to El Norte.
Casa Lucia
Santa Lucia Park
calle 60 x 55 y 53
Reminds me of alot of neighborhood restaurants in Milan from my former life in fashion. Marble and glass and laminated menus. It's not at all a bad choice for lunch. I eat there all the time. It's never been great and it's never been bad. The desserts are the only real disappointments here. They are sitting there staring at you all through your meal and they look great. They all suck. I have tried them all. They suck. I know they look really, really, really good but they allsuck. Yes the pecan pie, the chocolate layer cake, the carrot cake and even the cheesecake suck. Sorry. Have that order of fries and skip the dessert. Even the bathrooms make you feel like your in Milan.
Meson del Segoviano
calle 50-a no 443 entre 59 y 57
Plaza de Mejorada / Centro
tel 999 924 0055
I've said elsewhere it's the best restaurant downtown. I believe it is. I've been back several times this fall 2007 and I like it for lunch and I love it for dinner. Update June 2008. I still go here often when there are friends or guests in town. It's best to call first and make sure the owner/chef will be there. Sadly there are never many people here and there is basically zero buzz after you ask them to turn off the TV. But the food is real and the things I like best are croquets, sausages and the divine warm octopus & potato salad.
This restaurant closed and is now called El Segoviano. Now there are more people and more TV's and a larger menu. Zero charm but still very good food
Calle 32 no. 219 plaza 32 upstairs
San Ramon Norte
Merida
924 0055 or cell 999 163 3196
Los Alemendros
Plaza de Mejorada/Centro
This is why I link to David Sterling at Los Dos cooking school. He gives places a second chance and give them the benifit of the doubt....
Whatever... It is still an unpleasant room to eat in.
Update June 2008: I still cannot bare the thought of going back to Los Alemendros but recently some guests invited me to lunch a couple of times at La Tradition a 100% Yucatecan restaurant that I can recommend. In fact if you are at Mejorada you'd better jump in a cab right now and go there if you're looking for real Yucatecan cuisine prepared by a real chef. It's not in centro but it's not far away either.
La Tradition
calle 60 no. 293 x 25
Col. Alcala Martin
Restaurants Near Candelaria & Santiago
Pane e Vino
64 x 59
If your looking at the wonderful art deco Teatro Merida you'll miss out on the best Italian food downtown. Across the street Pane e Vino offers honest Tuscan food in a bohemian atmosphere with a mix of locals, expatriots and tourists. I am never sure if the owners are still cooking here or not. But since I always order the same things and they are always good I quit asking. The menu is huge and exhausting. In fact my favorite thing to do is sit up front and watch the tourists read the menu. They flip the dirty pages of the menu on the stand. They look at unpainted walls and the rustic floors. They waddle off to somewhere nicer. It may or may not be cleaner that will poison them for sure. I assume it's the menu and dirt that scares them off and not me hissing at them. I like the ragu sauce on gnocci or tagliatelle. I loved loved loved the panacoti until they changed the sauce from caramel to insipid black berry.
after dinner stroll around the zocalo or visit the Olimpo art gallery. In the corner to the right of the front door of the Olimpo are posted the current cultural events for the month.
Update Oct 2009
The owner doubled the rent in the middle of a tourist/financial crisis so Pane y Vino has relocated to a cleaner, prettier, bigger and I suspect cheaper location 2 blocks away. No longer in front of the Teatro Merida now in front of Telmex they now offer a lunch buffet which I'm 99.9% sure should be avoided. Hopefully they are still fresh pasta to order in the evenings and I'll check it out one day....soonish.
La Casa de Frida
61 x 66 y 66a
The owner recently gave up on having a huge menu and I can only say amen sister! Now you can sit in the courtyard and enjoy the homage to Frida decor although you can no longer enjoy the stars. Now there is a plastic roof over the once open patio. Chiles en nogada and mole are the things to order. The service has vastly improved.
before dinner you can shop at the real "Casa de las Artesanias" on calle 63 x 64 y 66 until 8 pm. Here you'll get a good idea of what you can expect to find in all the shops and here the prices are fixed and fair.
Alberto's Continental
64 y 59
It's been 3 years since Hurricane Isidoro wiped out the giant rubber trees that shaded the colonial courtyard of Alberto's. They've grown back and now you don't have to rely on the owners charm alone to enjoy a drink in the garden. Order from the Lebanese side of the menu. There are antiques for sale in the back and if your nice or cute he might open up the boutique for you after dinner. If you see a bus load of tourists in the dining room you should probably return on one of the nights when the place is empty...
La Reina de Itzalana
Santiago Market
57 x 72
They are not called tacos but the local fast food here is excellent. Five years ago when we were building our first house we ate here 3 or 4 times a week. The panuchos and salbutes are the best. All the tamales are great. I like the simple consume more than the lime soup but they are both exceptional. The fresh fruit aguas and liquados are great. There is a decent ice cream stand a few steps away toward the church. Open in the early evening til late at night.
64 x 59
If your looking at the wonderful art deco Teatro Merida you'll miss out on the best Italian food downtown. Across the street Pane e Vino offers honest Tuscan food in a bohemian atmosphere with a mix of locals, expatriots and tourists. I am never sure if the owners are still cooking here or not. But since I always order the same things and they are always good I quit asking. The menu is huge and exhausting. In fact my favorite thing to do is sit up front and watch the tourists read the menu. They flip the dirty pages of the menu on the stand. They look at unpainted walls and the rustic floors. They waddle off to somewhere nicer. It may or may not be cleaner that will poison them for sure. I assume it's the menu and dirt that scares them off and not me hissing at them. I like the ragu sauce on gnocci or tagliatelle. I loved loved loved the panacoti until they changed the sauce from caramel to insipid black berry.
after dinner stroll around the zocalo or visit the Olimpo art gallery. In the corner to the right of the front door of the Olimpo are posted the current cultural events for the month.
Update Oct 2009
The owner doubled the rent in the middle of a tourist/financial crisis so Pane y Vino has relocated to a cleaner, prettier, bigger and I suspect cheaper location 2 blocks away. No longer in front of the Teatro Merida now in front of Telmex they now offer a lunch buffet which I'm 99.9% sure should be avoided. Hopefully they are still fresh pasta to order in the evenings and I'll check it out one day....soonish.
La Casa de Frida
61 x 66 y 66a
The owner recently gave up on having a huge menu and I can only say amen sister! Now you can sit in the courtyard and enjoy the homage to Frida decor although you can no longer enjoy the stars. Now there is a plastic roof over the once open patio. Chiles en nogada and mole are the things to order. The service has vastly improved.
before dinner you can shop at the real "Casa de las Artesanias" on calle 63 x 64 y 66 until 8 pm. Here you'll get a good idea of what you can expect to find in all the shops and here the prices are fixed and fair.
Alberto's Continental
64 y 59
It's been 3 years since Hurricane Isidoro wiped out the giant rubber trees that shaded the colonial courtyard of Alberto's. They've grown back and now you don't have to rely on the owners charm alone to enjoy a drink in the garden. Order from the Lebanese side of the menu. There are antiques for sale in the back and if your nice or cute he might open up the boutique for you after dinner. If you see a bus load of tourists in the dining room you should probably return on one of the nights when the place is empty...
La Reina de Itzalana
Santiago Market
57 x 72
They are not called tacos but the local fast food here is excellent. Five years ago when we were building our first house we ate here 3 or 4 times a week. The panuchos and salbutes are the best. All the tamales are great. I like the simple consume more than the lime soup but they are both exceptional. The fresh fruit aguas and liquados are great. There is a decent ice cream stand a few steps away toward the church. Open in the early evening til late at night.
Restaurants Near Ermita & San Sebastian
There's not much of anything in this area of town. At night there are several good fast food stands around the corner of calle 77 y 70. Most days on calle 81 between 66 & 68 there is a man standing on the sidewalk or edge of the street grilling chickens . They are fantastic. You could picnic in the park and buy your drinks on the corner of calle 66 and 77. There's a new cocina economica on calle 75 and 64 and another on calle 77 and 62 but I've not tried them yet...going soon.
Restaurants Near Santa Ana
Santa Ana Market
calle 47 x 60 y 58
Santa Ana Market Stalls are good enough for Rick Bayless of Frontera Grill. In fact Rick made all of season 5 of his PBS cooking show about the Yucatan and our cuisine... the journey continues as they indulge in early morning treats including tortas, panuchos and impossible cake (chocolate cake topped with flan) from the Santa Ana market.. So check out the Santa Ana Food stalls and market early in the morning.
Dona Tere
calle 47 x 68 y 66
Dona Tere is the cocina economica around the corner from L'Orangerie de Santa Ana. It once had the ironic misfortune of being called the house of screws. Then Mary Soco moved from the corner of calle 47 & 66 to the house of screws but now she's moved down the road to calle 68 around 53. Whoever took over her old space is doing a fine job as well. So here are 3 good cocina economica's within 3 blocks of each other.
Hotel San Angel
Paseo Montejo no. 1 x 49
A charming hotel, a great Fonart craft shop and a cafe that serves lunch or snacks on the patio or in the sala. The owner has a sweet tooth and loves to bake. Try the cakes and cookies for sure. A good place to rest between centro and Paseo Montejo.
Noche Mexicana
calle 47 y Paseo Montejo
On saturday nights a variety show that is often good and always campy here at the beginning of the Blvd. Montejo. Anna Sabrina serves the best tacos in town here on Saturday nights and in Santa Lucia square on Sunday before 2pm. These are tacos from the state of Mexico not from Yucatan.
Pizzeria Raffaello
corner of calle 60 and 49
deliver 924 99 43
Still no wine or beer and that is about the only reason not eat at Rafaello and Bruno's pizzeria 3 nights a week! Fresh toppings and perfect crust. My favorites are Napoli and Roma. Since most people don't like anchovies or potatoes on their pizza I don't have to share and that suits me fine.
Cafe Chocolate
calle 60 and 49
When my former assistants told me his landlord was opening a restaurant in this great location I asked him what sort of food they would serve. He said they had not decided yet. Anyone with a passion for food imagines opening a restaurant and pretty damn well knows what they would put on the menu. Well they did open a cafe and I can tell you what sort of food they decided to serve. Bad! Have a coffee and admire the bad art and decor.... at least it's cheap.
Rescoldos Mediterranean Bistro
Tuesday- Friday 2pm -10pm & Saturday 6pm -11 pm
Calle 62 #366 y 41 x 43
Centro Histórico, Merida
Phone (999) 286-1028
American Style Pizzas and Calzones cooked and served by the Greco Canadian owners in a pleasant house on a noisy street.
The bread here is great but that is the only great thing I've discovered here. I've had lunch 3 or 4 times & I'll go back but I'm not craving anything. They are number 1 on tripadvisor but not one of my favorite restaurants is in the top 20. This restaurant is popular with the expats. For me there is an over abundance of dried herbs in everything.
Namaste Grill
Santa Ana
calle 47 & 58
Dinner only
Statement from the owners as seen in Yucatan Today
"So not enough folks out there really wanted an Indian restaurant in Mérida it seems...the owners of Namaste Grill are re-inventing themselves with an Italian eatery coming soon...New York, New York will be in the same location, with lots of great New York-style Italian cooking to entice you."
So far I'm not enticed. I know for a fact that there are at least 50 people in Merida dying for a good Indian restaurant to open. Let us know when one does.
Teddy's Corner
calle 43 at 62
Teddy and I are from the same town in Texas which currently has a population of 4500 people but when we moved there in 1961 the population was 200. When I heard someone from Texas was opening a restaurant in town my first thought was "Tex-Mex, At Last!" But when Teddy informed me he was opening a "Country Kitchen" I thought "God Help US"! The biscuits and Gravy are very good (Patience required). The coffee is pretty much of the Texas truck stop variety. Open for breakfast and Lunch.
see the recommendations for Santiago and for Santa Lucia as well. They are just a 10 minute walk from Santa Ana.
calle 47 x 60 y 58
Santa Ana Market Stalls are good enough for Rick Bayless of Frontera Grill. In fact Rick made all of season 5 of his PBS cooking show about the Yucatan and our cuisine... the journey continues as they indulge in early morning treats including tortas, panuchos and impossible cake (chocolate cake topped with flan) from the Santa Ana market.. So check out the Santa Ana Food stalls and market early in the morning.
Dona Tere
calle 47 x 68 y 66
Dona Tere is the cocina economica around the corner from L'Orangerie de Santa Ana. It once had the ironic misfortune of being called the house of screws. Then Mary Soco moved from the corner of calle 47 & 66 to the house of screws but now she's moved down the road to calle 68 around 53. Whoever took over her old space is doing a fine job as well. So here are 3 good cocina economica's within 3 blocks of each other.
Hotel San Angel
Paseo Montejo no. 1 x 49
A charming hotel, a great Fonart craft shop and a cafe that serves lunch or snacks on the patio or in the sala. The owner has a sweet tooth and loves to bake. Try the cakes and cookies for sure. A good place to rest between centro and Paseo Montejo.
Noche Mexicana
calle 47 y Paseo Montejo
On saturday nights a variety show that is often good and always campy here at the beginning of the Blvd. Montejo. Anna Sabrina serves the best tacos in town here on Saturday nights and in Santa Lucia square on Sunday before 2pm. These are tacos from the state of Mexico not from Yucatan.
Pizzeria Raffaello
corner of calle 60 and 49
deliver 924 99 43
Still no wine or beer and that is about the only reason not eat at Rafaello and Bruno's pizzeria 3 nights a week! Fresh toppings and perfect crust. My favorites are Napoli and Roma. Since most people don't like anchovies or potatoes on their pizza I don't have to share and that suits me fine.
Cafe Chocolate
calle 60 and 49
When my former assistants told me his landlord was opening a restaurant in this great location I asked him what sort of food they would serve. He said they had not decided yet. Anyone with a passion for food imagines opening a restaurant and pretty damn well knows what they would put on the menu. Well they did open a cafe and I can tell you what sort of food they decided to serve. Bad! Have a coffee and admire the bad art and decor.... at least it's cheap.
Rescoldos Mediterranean Bistro
Tuesday- Friday 2pm -10pm & Saturday 6pm -11 pm
Calle 62 #366 y 41 x 43
Centro Histórico, Merida
Phone (999) 286-1028
American Style Pizzas and Calzones cooked and served by the Greco Canadian owners in a pleasant house on a noisy street.
The bread here is great but that is the only great thing I've discovered here. I've had lunch 3 or 4 times & I'll go back but I'm not craving anything. They are number 1 on tripadvisor but not one of my favorite restaurants is in the top 20. This restaurant is popular with the expats. For me there is an over abundance of dried herbs in everything.
Namaste Grill
Santa Ana
calle 47 & 58
Dinner only
Statement from the owners as seen in Yucatan Today
"So not enough folks out there really wanted an Indian restaurant in Mérida it seems...the owners of Namaste Grill are re-inventing themselves with an Italian eatery coming soon...New York, New York will be in the same location, with lots of great New York-style Italian cooking to entice you."
So far I'm not enticed. I know for a fact that there are at least 50 people in Merida dying for a good Indian restaurant to open. Let us know when one does.
Teddy's Corner
calle 43 at 62
Teddy and I are from the same town in Texas which currently has a population of 4500 people but when we moved there in 1961 the population was 200. When I heard someone from Texas was opening a restaurant in town my first thought was "Tex-Mex, At Last!" But when Teddy informed me he was opening a "Country Kitchen" I thought "God Help US"! The biscuits and Gravy are very good (Patience required). The coffee is pretty much of the Texas truck stop variety. Open for breakfast and Lunch.
see the recommendations for Santiago and for Santa Lucia as well. They are just a 10 minute walk from Santa Ana.
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