As I have many guests coming and the blogs have become congested with restaurants that have bitten the dust I will just list here some places you might enjoy. I eat almost exclusively at home. Last year my chickens convinced me to stop eating chickens and this year my yoga convinced me to stop eating meat and I suspect if I go anywhere near the sea or an aquarium I'll stop eating fish as well.
You'll find the addresses for the places I mention in my blog or from Mr. Google.
Seafood
I go to Marlin Azul very often and Cangrejito sometimes. Both are good and inexpensive options for lunch in centro. I go to Miyabi when I want fish but a tourist doesn't crave Japanese in Mexico and you should go to Mulle Ocho or La Pigua for lunch or dinner and ignore the decor and atmosphere of both. El Pez Gordo has several locations but the one in centro closed this fall. They had decent baja style tacos.
Special
For something special (and I mean that literally and cynically) try Hacienda Xcanatun's Casa de Piedra or Rosas y Xocolate or the newly reopened Nectar. I hear good things this year about all of these places. When I want a special meal I get on a plane to New York or Paris. I don't do special in Merida but you might not have a choice. If you're out of your mind you can go to this years Newest and Most Special place Ku'uk which is spectacular molecular smoking spinning and bell ringing with never ending tasting menu's.... UPDATE: Jan. 9, 2013 had dinner last night at Rosas y Xocolate and it was very good...still I'd order with caution...
Meat
La Rueda is the local steak house where the locals have long lunches in front of televisions and an astroturf playground but don't let that scare you. LaRecova has survived the popular crowd and has settled down into a pleasant place to dine I hear. The ""trendies" sent me running 3 years ago. Trotters is where everyone goes (except me). None of those are in centro so in centro if you want a steak go to Pancho's which is owned by Trotters. Update September 2013 Trotters has opened a new location of El Tratto in Santa Lucia park.
Hotels
Casa San Angel has a good breakfast and lunch menu and is a pleasant place to hang out for coffee and dessert. The newest hotel is Mansion Merida on the Park and I gave this place a walkthrough but could not give it a sit down and neither should you. Rosas y Xocolate is a place you might want to try the bar on the roof terrace or the informal dining room in the courtyard before plunging into the Dining Room Xperience. Casa Balam is very very old school but safe for grandma and private bankers.
Mayan
Chaya Maya is a place you're going to go but I can't...The new La Chaya is even worse albeit prettier. La Reina de Itzlana is a market stall with good food after 8pm in Santiago. La Tradicion has a new central location on calle 60 and also safe for granny as is the Los Alemendros in the Fiesta American Hotel or Mejorada park. I'd just go to the market and eat if I were you and if that scares you then drive out to Hacienda Teya or go to Mani and to El Principe de Tutul Xui which is what I would do.
Mexican
All of the Mexican cooks have moved to America or Europe except Ana Sabrina who makes tacos in Santa Lucia park on Sunday til 2pm. La Reforma has good Mole and Chile Rellenos and I suppose Frida's does too. Those are the places to have Chiles en Nogades this season. Pancho's is the most TexMex option if you like that cruise ship atmosphere with load music and costumed waiters. My first choice is Apoala a Oaxacan restaurant that just opened this fall in Santa Lucia park.
Italian
There are some decent Italian places opened by real live Italians in Centro you're only options are Rafaellos Pizza and Oliva which just opened in November 2013.
I would recommend that you really try the food of the local women who cook in their homes mostly and offer a table or three and take out. These are called cocina economica and you can take your Tupperwear there at lunch time and walk away with the special of the day. I wouldn't be afraid to eat in the market stalls if you see others doing it. I've been sick once from food in 12years. The odds are in your favor.
** my gold plated rule is if you have a doubt then order appetizers to start and then if they are good order something else. If it's bad get the check and go somewhere else. Life is too short to eat shitty food.
Happy New Baktun and Happy New Year
Sunday, December 16, 2012
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
2012 Doom & Gloom
The worst new restaurant in Centro award of 2012 goes to 2012. Congratulations. I and four friends recently broke out of our mold and tried a new place that was recommended by our yoga teacher. A new vegetarian restaurant in centro in a nice clean almost pretty setting. Despite the fact that there were 5 waiters for our table and only one other couple in the restaurant at the lunch hour our meal was a total disaster from beginning to end. There was not one tasty dish. As we had a chance to glance at the trash as it was carried through the dining room we understood why. All of the sauces came out of a box or can and even the "fresh" chaya juice was made with boxed pineapple juice. After a year of raising chickens and rabbits I'm on the edge of becoming a vegetarian but this experience does not advance the cause!
2012 Espacios Mayas y Algo Mas
Calle 62 x 55 & 57
Centro Historico
Merida
2012 Espacios Mayas y Algo Mas
Calle 62 x 55 & 57
Centro Historico
Merida
I've seen Wurst
I noticed a couple of weeks a go that a beer hall has opened across the street from Marlin Azul on Calle 62 x 57 & 59 called La Bierhaus. This is the second location opened by Jurgen in Merida but the other is el norte the area of town one only need visit to go to the cinema or for Sushi at Miyabi. I'm going to go to happy hour from 5-9 and see just how happy they can make me one day this week (or next).
also
My young friend Dagmar told me that the new owners of Mayan Pub are French and they have upgraded the menu and serve decent food. I doubt I'll ever experience that but it's good to know. Update: I went to La Bierhaus stand at the Polo Club and had a delicious bratwurst and beer. With that introduction I ventured into La Bierhaus after church hopping on Good Friday. I was with my friends from Paris one of whom was Austrian. We all enjoyed it and the old house is really beautiful. I'm not rushing back but I'll go again. The list of beers is pretty impressive for the Yucatan.
also
My young friend Dagmar told me that the new owners of Mayan Pub are French and they have upgraded the menu and serve decent food. I doubt I'll ever experience that but it's good to know. Update: I went to La Bierhaus stand at the Polo Club and had a delicious bratwurst and beer. With that introduction I ventured into La Bierhaus after church hopping on Good Friday. I was with my friends from Paris one of whom was Austrian. We all enjoyed it and the old house is really beautiful. I'm not rushing back but I'll go again. The list of beers is pretty impressive for the Yucatan.
Saturday, February 11, 2012
Seafood
Centro
Marlin Azul
El Cangrejito - tacos
Hotel Zone
La Pigua
Muelle Ocho
North
Pez Gordo- tacos
Miyabi-sushi
Silver Fish
There once was an "American" restaurant in centro called Claps and the owners didn't understand why there were never any North Americans eating there...I've never been to the restaurant called Silverfish....but I've heard it's good.
It's been over a year since I've been to La Pigua or Muelle Ocho. I get my fish fix at Marlin Azul and Miyabi every week. I've said enough about these places elsewhere on my blogs. You can try anywhere out on the beach...it's all the same rancid oil as far as I can tell.
Marlin Azul
El Cangrejito - tacos
Hotel Zone
La Pigua
Muelle Ocho
North
Pez Gordo- tacos
Miyabi-sushi
Silver Fish
There once was an "American" restaurant in centro called Claps and the owners didn't understand why there were never any North Americans eating there...I've never been to the restaurant called Silverfish....but I've heard it's good.
It's been over a year since I've been to La Pigua or Muelle Ocho. I get my fish fix at Marlin Azul and Miyabi every week. I've said enough about these places elsewhere on my blogs. You can try anywhere out on the beach...it's all the same rancid oil as far as I can tell.
Mediterranean Diet in Centro
If you care about pizza then you should head over to Rafaello's off the corner of 60 x 51 sometimes surly service which you can just overlook because the pizza is real southern Italian made in a wood burning oven by a real southern Italian...they deliver too if you just can take abusive service.
If you care less about pizza then you should try the new Oliva on the corner of 56 x 49. Everyone raving about the home made pasta from a Roman chef. Informal small dining room and take out dishes for groups of 4 or 6 are a great option for eating at home.
If you need pizza and pasta you can try the newest location of La Tratto on the corner of calle 55 x 60. Here the service is friendly and you can dine under the stars and giant trees in Santa Lucia park. Go on Thursday if you want to see the Serenata Yucateca. It's basically south beach Miami atmosphere with american style food for the richie rich locals. Happy Hour at the bar is the place to get your feet wet.
If your thinking of buying or renting a house then you should try Rescoldos a "Mediterranean Bistro"
on Calle 62 x 41 & 43. The owners are Greek/Canadian and it's a popular hangout for the expat community. The food is heavier here than with the Italians at Rafaello or Oliva but more home made than the factory line food served at La Tratto.
Some people have enjoyed their pasta at Trattoria La Pasta but I've not had the pleasure. It's on Paseo Montejo x 39 & 41. I just never eat Pasta in restaurants unless I'm given no choice...
Now if you only care about eating Italian food and you want to do the Yucatecan tour of Italian restaurants owned by Italian I will give you the list of the most popular places where you have the best chances of authentic cuisine...
Osteria Picolli is the newest and maybe the best place to start on the Prolongacion Montejo.
Villa Italia is well established and has it's loyal followers on the weekends it may be hard to book.
Piola is far out near City Center
Vite Da Bruno in the nearby suburb of colonia Mexico
If you care less about pizza then you should try the new Oliva on the corner of 56 x 49. Everyone raving about the home made pasta from a Roman chef. Informal small dining room and take out dishes for groups of 4 or 6 are a great option for eating at home.
If you need pizza and pasta you can try the newest location of La Tratto on the corner of calle 55 x 60. Here the service is friendly and you can dine under the stars and giant trees in Santa Lucia park. Go on Thursday if you want to see the Serenata Yucateca. It's basically south beach Miami atmosphere with american style food for the richie rich locals. Happy Hour at the bar is the place to get your feet wet.
If your thinking of buying or renting a house then you should try Rescoldos a "Mediterranean Bistro"
on Calle 62 x 41 & 43. The owners are Greek/Canadian and it's a popular hangout for the expat community. The food is heavier here than with the Italians at Rafaello or Oliva but more home made than the factory line food served at La Tratto.
Some people have enjoyed their pasta at Trattoria La Pasta but I've not had the pleasure. It's on Paseo Montejo x 39 & 41. I just never eat Pasta in restaurants unless I'm given no choice...
Now if you only care about eating Italian food and you want to do the Yucatecan tour of Italian restaurants owned by Italian I will give you the list of the most popular places where you have the best chances of authentic cuisine...
Osteria Picolli is the newest and maybe the best place to start on the Prolongacion Montejo.
Villa Italia is well established and has it's loyal followers on the weekends it may be hard to book.
Piola is far out near City Center
Vite Da Bruno in the nearby suburb of colonia Mexico
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Seafood in Centro
El Cangrejito
57 x 64 y 66
The little crab is the name of this, the best, seafood taco stand in the world. Well maybe. The owner can be a crab too but lately he has been awfully friendly. Don't let him scare you. Sit down order a beer and ask for one or two of everything. That will make him happy and then you can decide what you like. Don't be offended if he serves his loyal clientel before he sneers at you. I never sat in the back room until a couple of weeks ago. It is a treasure trove of kitsch and it takes the edge off the wait for your food. The best things to order are cherna, langousta, venado, pulpo, camarones and of course cangrejito. I don't so much like the empanzidao or the stuffed pepper that is breaded too.
June 2008 Update: I still go most weeks to El Cangrejito. It's always great. A lot of our guests who are only around for a few days can't get enough of El Cangrejito either. Save room for dessert or take some home the meringues. I love the coconut and squash seed patties as well.
June 2011 Update: Still Great!!!
Marlin Azul
62 x 57 y 59
Fish soup superb. Outstanding ceviche of octopus or shrimp or fish or mixed. I like all the tacos. Fried breaded grouper is 3 dollars and enough for 2, crispy and fresh. I like the bar on the side where you can make eye contact with the servers. The room next door has AC but the waiter is less attentive and there is a mirrored wall. I'm just beyond the point of wanting to look at myself having lunch!
June 2008 Update: I've changed my mind. They have renovated and now I love sitting in the new room with big booths and AC! I'm addicted to the ceviche. I go every week!
September 2011 Update: I still go to Marlin Azul at least once a week. Now I get flawless service after all these years and the waiters bring me my lemonade with soda (no sugar) as soon as I sit down. Still loving the friend grouper and everyone who orders it a la plancha is always jealous of mine. It's also good in the garlic sauce. A new discovery that is not on the menu is the Octopus in it's ink. It's Octopus season now and very good.
Here are two popular Seafood restaurants near centro.
La Pigua
Calle 33 no. 505 a x Avenida Cupules y 62
(near the hotel districts)
A business man's luncheon restaurant that is open from 12-6. It's pricey, it's stuffy but it's not all bad. La Pigua is reputed to be the best seafood restaurant in the Yucatan. If that is true then it is a sad state of affairs for seafood.
Is it the aquariums or the decor alone that reminds me of a shopping mall in Waco,Texas circa 1975? Don't think that the grilled items on the menu will be grilled. A la plancha means griddled to death not grilled. Go for the fried anything. Fried is always good! If you are not going out to the beach this could be as close as you'll get to the real deal. Huachinago/Snapper, Robalo/Snook,Dorado/Dolphin Fish, Boquinete/Hog Fish, Pamapno, Cazon/Baby Shark, Rubia/Yellow Tail. I've warned you about the decor and ambiance, enjoy the food....
June 2008 update: I've lowered my standards. After almost 7 years in Merida I have a higher tolerance for bad decor. I've been 4 or 5 times to La Pigua in the past month. Part of the reason is the coconut cake which is a world class dessert and should not be missed. The other reason is I discovered the Sir Frances Drake. It is a huge plate of giant chunks of seafood. It's a pile of squid, conch, octopus, fish and shrimp! I'm less impressed with the other dishes I've tried but a couple of beers, ceviche and coconut cake is enough to keep me going back week after week.
Muelle 8
Calle 21 No. 141 Col. Buenavista, tel. 944 5343
The shock of the horrid Gilligan Island decor kept me away from this seafood instituion for the past 7 years. Some Xmeridianos who now live in Oaxaca took me there last week. We had a scallop carpacio and a octopus carpacio that were better than anything I've ever been served in this town. We had a fish ceviche and a second order of scallops. Yummy.
57 x 64 y 66
The little crab is the name of this, the best, seafood taco stand in the world. Well maybe. The owner can be a crab too but lately he has been awfully friendly. Don't let him scare you. Sit down order a beer and ask for one or two of everything. That will make him happy and then you can decide what you like. Don't be offended if he serves his loyal clientel before he sneers at you. I never sat in the back room until a couple of weeks ago. It is a treasure trove of kitsch and it takes the edge off the wait for your food. The best things to order are cherna, langousta, venado, pulpo, camarones and of course cangrejito. I don't so much like the empanzidao or the stuffed pepper that is breaded too.
June 2008 Update: I still go most weeks to El Cangrejito. It's always great. A lot of our guests who are only around for a few days can't get enough of El Cangrejito either. Save room for dessert or take some home the meringues. I love the coconut and squash seed patties as well.
June 2011 Update: Still Great!!!
Marlin Azul
62 x 57 y 59
Fish soup superb. Outstanding ceviche of octopus or shrimp or fish or mixed. I like all the tacos. Fried breaded grouper is 3 dollars and enough for 2, crispy and fresh. I like the bar on the side where you can make eye contact with the servers. The room next door has AC but the waiter is less attentive and there is a mirrored wall. I'm just beyond the point of wanting to look at myself having lunch!
June 2008 Update: I've changed my mind. They have renovated and now I love sitting in the new room with big booths and AC! I'm addicted to the ceviche. I go every week!
September 2011 Update: I still go to Marlin Azul at least once a week. Now I get flawless service after all these years and the waiters bring me my lemonade with soda (no sugar) as soon as I sit down. Still loving the friend grouper and everyone who orders it a la plancha is always jealous of mine. It's also good in the garlic sauce. A new discovery that is not on the menu is the Octopus in it's ink. It's Octopus season now and very good.
Here are two popular Seafood restaurants near centro.
La Pigua
Calle 33 no. 505 a x Avenida Cupules y 62
(near the hotel districts)
A business man's luncheon restaurant that is open from 12-6. It's pricey, it's stuffy but it's not all bad. La Pigua is reputed to be the best seafood restaurant in the Yucatan. If that is true then it is a sad state of affairs for seafood.
Is it the aquariums or the decor alone that reminds me of a shopping mall in Waco,Texas circa 1975? Don't think that the grilled items on the menu will be grilled. A la plancha means griddled to death not grilled. Go for the fried anything. Fried is always good! If you are not going out to the beach this could be as close as you'll get to the real deal. Huachinago/Snapper, Robalo/Snook,Dorado/Dolphin Fish, Boquinete/Hog Fish, Pamapno, Cazon/Baby Shark, Rubia/Yellow Tail. I've warned you about the decor and ambiance, enjoy the food....
June 2008 update: I've lowered my standards. After almost 7 years in Merida I have a higher tolerance for bad decor. I've been 4 or 5 times to La Pigua in the past month. Part of the reason is the coconut cake which is a world class dessert and should not be missed. The other reason is I discovered the Sir Frances Drake. It is a huge plate of giant chunks of seafood. It's a pile of squid, conch, octopus, fish and shrimp! I'm less impressed with the other dishes I've tried but a couple of beers, ceviche and coconut cake is enough to keep me going back week after week.
Muelle 8
Calle 21 No. 141 Col. Buenavista, tel. 944 5343
The shock of the horrid Gilligan Island decor kept me away from this seafood instituion for the past 7 years. Some Xmeridianos who now live in Oaxaca took me there last week. We had a scallop carpacio and a octopus carpacio that were better than anything I've ever been served in this town. We had a fish ceviche and a second order of scallops. Yummy.
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Take Montejo North
Progresso
Elio Al Mare
calle 21 no.60 x 40 y38
01 969 935 0804
Everyone whom I trusts on matters of taste calls me the minute they discover Elio Al Mare. They obviously don't read my blog.
I've been enchanted by this place since I stumbled on it about a year ago. But each time I return, which is not often, it has been closed. I've only just gotten the phone number from a friend of a friend of the owner. The chef/owner is an Italian who had a restaurant for several years on the isla de Holbox. I don't think he's secured his license to sell liquor yet so you'll have to imagine you're sipping the perfect Greco di Tuffo with your seafood pasta. I cannot really remember what I ate a year ago but I remember being slightly stunned by the quality and a little surprised by the tab. I shall return....but I'll call first.
October 2009 They do have wine and beer now at Elio Al Mare but they are so inconsistent with there hours and closing days that I've found myself standing in front of the door stomping and screaming on too many occasions.
Saint Bonnet
Avenida Malecon x calle 28
The beach is the place to eat seafood. It's best to go when the weather is calm. When it's stormy they don't fish as they boats are tiny and they have never even heard of the life vest option. There is a new place hidden away down the beach that is owned by an Italian transplant from Holbox. Elio Al Mare is off the beaten path, thank the lord, and far from the tourist infested malecon of Progresso. Saint Bonnet is where we normally eat if we find outselves washed up on the beach in Progresso. If you go to San Bonnet, keep it simple. If you've just stumbled off a cruise ship you will most likely want to go eat, drink and scream "ariba" at Eladio's which is just a hop, skip and jump off the Pier from whence you came.
Elio Al Mare
calle 21 no.60 x 40 y38
01 969 935 0804
Everyone whom I trusts on matters of taste calls me the minute they discover Elio Al Mare. They obviously don't read my blog.
I've been enchanted by this place since I stumbled on it about a year ago. But each time I return, which is not often, it has been closed. I've only just gotten the phone number from a friend of a friend of the owner. The chef/owner is an Italian who had a restaurant for several years on the isla de Holbox. I don't think he's secured his license to sell liquor yet so you'll have to imagine you're sipping the perfect Greco di Tuffo with your seafood pasta. I cannot really remember what I ate a year ago but I remember being slightly stunned by the quality and a little surprised by the tab. I shall return....but I'll call first.
October 2009 They do have wine and beer now at Elio Al Mare but they are so inconsistent with there hours and closing days that I've found myself standing in front of the door stomping and screaming on too many occasions.
Saint Bonnet
Avenida Malecon x calle 28
The beach is the place to eat seafood. It's best to go when the weather is calm. When it's stormy they don't fish as they boats are tiny and they have never even heard of the life vest option. There is a new place hidden away down the beach that is owned by an Italian transplant from Holbox. Elio Al Mare is off the beaten path, thank the lord, and far from the tourist infested malecon of Progresso. Saint Bonnet is where we normally eat if we find outselves washed up on the beach in Progresso. If you go to San Bonnet, keep it simple. If you've just stumbled off a cruise ship you will most likely want to go eat, drink and scream "ariba" at Eladio's which is just a hop, skip and jump off the Pier from whence you came.
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Restaurants Near Mejorada & Santa Lucia
Cafe Alemeda
Calle 58 #474 between 55 and 57
This lebanese restaurant is cheap and casual. I only like to sit on the patio in the back. That is sometimes a problem. Josh likes the cabbage rolls. We always have the hummous, berenjena and taboule. Sometimes the kabobs are nice and tender and sometimes they bounce.
Cafe Club
calle 55 x 60 y 58
I go here for the fresh juices and the vegetable soup. Don't know why but I go back once or twice a week. It's my canteen but my order never varies except on the days I order french fries and change from watermelon juice to payaya with lime.
Here I never have to fight to sit on the patio.
El Templo
Calle 59 #438 x 52 y 50
Last time I checked they were not open for lunch. The working gringo's like this place alot. More than I do so I'll let them speak. I've had a couple of good meals here but always very bad service which in the end made not wish to return. But that was at lunch. We'll order a drink and if it sucks go around the corner to Meson del Segoviano.
UPATE December 1, 2011 After rave review from my friends Jim and Vija from NY I tried Templo again. The chicken in mustard and white wine sauce was undercooked but the sauce was not reduced enough and just tasted like wine had been poured into a watery stock at the last minute. The stuffed chicken breast with chipotle and cheese had a very unsavory crust and it was cream cheese which I have a hard time think of as cheese. If the food had been good I could have endured the loud pop music and the low chairs at a high table...alas the food was awful. I called Jim and he assured me that his lunch had been great and in fact his dinner the night before was catered by El Templo and was good as well. He is as finicky as I am so you'll have to take a chance on this place. Segoniano has moved to El Norte.
Casa Lucia
Santa Lucia Park
calle 60 x 55 y 53
Reminds me of alot of neighborhood restaurants in Milan from my former life in fashion. Marble and glass and laminated menus. It's not at all a bad choice for lunch. I eat there all the time. It's never been great and it's never been bad. The desserts are the only real disappointments here. They are sitting there staring at you all through your meal and they look great. They all suck. I have tried them all. They suck. I know they look really, really, really good but they allsuck. Yes the pecan pie, the chocolate layer cake, the carrot cake and even the cheesecake suck. Sorry. Have that order of fries and skip the dessert. Even the bathrooms make you feel like your in Milan.
Meson del Segoviano
calle 50-a no 443 entre 59 y 57
Plaza de Mejorada / Centro
tel 999 924 0055
I've said elsewhere it's the best restaurant downtown. I believe it is. I've been back several times this fall 2007 and I like it for lunch and I love it for dinner. Update June 2008. I still go here often when there are friends or guests in town. It's best to call first and make sure the owner/chef will be there. Sadly there are never many people here and there is basically zero buzz after you ask them to turn off the TV. But the food is real and the things I like best are croquets, sausages and the divine warm octopus & potato salad.
This restaurant closed and is now called El Segoviano. Now there are more people and more TV's and a larger menu. Zero charm but still very good food
Calle 32 no. 219 plaza 32 upstairs
San Ramon Norte
Merida
924 0055 or cell 999 163 3196
Los Alemendros
Plaza de Mejorada/Centro
This is why I link to David Sterling at Los Dos cooking school. He gives places a second chance and give them the benifit of the doubt....
Whatever... It is still an unpleasant room to eat in.
Update June 2008: I still cannot bare the thought of going back to Los Alemendros but recently some guests invited me to lunch a couple of times at La Tradition a 100% Yucatecan restaurant that I can recommend. In fact if you are at Mejorada you'd better jump in a cab right now and go there if you're looking for real Yucatecan cuisine prepared by a real chef. It's not in centro but it's not far away either.
La Tradition
calle 60 no. 293 x 25
Col. Alcala Martin
Calle 58 #474 between 55 and 57
This lebanese restaurant is cheap and casual. I only like to sit on the patio in the back. That is sometimes a problem. Josh likes the cabbage rolls. We always have the hummous, berenjena and taboule. Sometimes the kabobs are nice and tender and sometimes they bounce.
Cafe Club
calle 55 x 60 y 58
I go here for the fresh juices and the vegetable soup. Don't know why but I go back once or twice a week. It's my canteen but my order never varies except on the days I order french fries and change from watermelon juice to payaya with lime.
Here I never have to fight to sit on the patio.
El Templo
Calle 59 #438 x 52 y 50
Last time I checked they were not open for lunch. The working gringo's like this place alot. More than I do so I'll let them speak. I've had a couple of good meals here but always very bad service which in the end made not wish to return. But that was at lunch. We'll order a drink and if it sucks go around the corner to Meson del Segoviano.
UPATE December 1, 2011 After rave review from my friends Jim and Vija from NY I tried Templo again. The chicken in mustard and white wine sauce was undercooked but the sauce was not reduced enough and just tasted like wine had been poured into a watery stock at the last minute. The stuffed chicken breast with chipotle and cheese had a very unsavory crust and it was cream cheese which I have a hard time think of as cheese. If the food had been good I could have endured the loud pop music and the low chairs at a high table...alas the food was awful. I called Jim and he assured me that his lunch had been great and in fact his dinner the night before was catered by El Templo and was good as well. He is as finicky as I am so you'll have to take a chance on this place. Segoniano has moved to El Norte.
Casa Lucia
Santa Lucia Park
calle 60 x 55 y 53
Reminds me of alot of neighborhood restaurants in Milan from my former life in fashion. Marble and glass and laminated menus. It's not at all a bad choice for lunch. I eat there all the time. It's never been great and it's never been bad. The desserts are the only real disappointments here. They are sitting there staring at you all through your meal and they look great. They all suck. I have tried them all. They suck. I know they look really, really, really good but they allsuck. Yes the pecan pie, the chocolate layer cake, the carrot cake and even the cheesecake suck. Sorry. Have that order of fries and skip the dessert. Even the bathrooms make you feel like your in Milan.
Meson del Segoviano
calle 50-a no 443 entre 59 y 57
Plaza de Mejorada / Centro
tel 999 924 0055
I've said elsewhere it's the best restaurant downtown. I believe it is. I've been back several times this fall 2007 and I like it for lunch and I love it for dinner. Update June 2008. I still go here often when there are friends or guests in town. It's best to call first and make sure the owner/chef will be there. Sadly there are never many people here and there is basically zero buzz after you ask them to turn off the TV. But the food is real and the things I like best are croquets, sausages and the divine warm octopus & potato salad.
This restaurant closed and is now called El Segoviano. Now there are more people and more TV's and a larger menu. Zero charm but still very good food
Calle 32 no. 219 plaza 32 upstairs
San Ramon Norte
Merida
924 0055 or cell 999 163 3196
Los Alemendros
Plaza de Mejorada/Centro
This is why I link to David Sterling at Los Dos cooking school. He gives places a second chance and give them the benifit of the doubt....
Whatever... It is still an unpleasant room to eat in.
Update June 2008: I still cannot bare the thought of going back to Los Alemendros but recently some guests invited me to lunch a couple of times at La Tradition a 100% Yucatecan restaurant that I can recommend. In fact if you are at Mejorada you'd better jump in a cab right now and go there if you're looking for real Yucatecan cuisine prepared by a real chef. It's not in centro but it's not far away either.
La Tradition
calle 60 no. 293 x 25
Col. Alcala Martin
Restaurants Near Candelaria & Santiago
Pane e Vino
64 x 59
If your looking at the wonderful art deco Teatro Merida you'll miss out on the best Italian food downtown. Across the street Pane e Vino offers honest Tuscan food in a bohemian atmosphere with a mix of locals, expatriots and tourists. I am never sure if the owners are still cooking here or not. But since I always order the same things and they are always good I quit asking. The menu is huge and exhausting. In fact my favorite thing to do is sit up front and watch the tourists read the menu. They flip the dirty pages of the menu on the stand. They look at unpainted walls and the rustic floors. They waddle off to somewhere nicer. It may or may not be cleaner that will poison them for sure. I assume it's the menu and dirt that scares them off and not me hissing at them. I like the ragu sauce on gnocci or tagliatelle. I loved loved loved the panacoti until they changed the sauce from caramel to insipid black berry.
after dinner stroll around the zocalo or visit the Olimpo art gallery. In the corner to the right of the front door of the Olimpo are posted the current cultural events for the month.
Update Oct 2009
The owner doubled the rent in the middle of a tourist/financial crisis so Pane y Vino has relocated to a cleaner, prettier, bigger and I suspect cheaper location 2 blocks away. No longer in front of the Teatro Merida now in front of Telmex they now offer a lunch buffet which I'm 99.9% sure should be avoided. Hopefully they are still fresh pasta to order in the evenings and I'll check it out one day....soonish.
La Casa de Frida
61 x 66 y 66a
The owner recently gave up on having a huge menu and I can only say amen sister! Now you can sit in the courtyard and enjoy the homage to Frida decor although you can no longer enjoy the stars. Now there is a plastic roof over the once open patio. Chiles en nogada and mole are the things to order. The service has vastly improved.
before dinner you can shop at the real "Casa de las Artesanias" on calle 63 x 64 y 66 until 8 pm. Here you'll get a good idea of what you can expect to find in all the shops and here the prices are fixed and fair.
Alberto's Continental
64 y 59
It's been 3 years since Hurricane Isidoro wiped out the giant rubber trees that shaded the colonial courtyard of Alberto's. They've grown back and now you don't have to rely on the owners charm alone to enjoy a drink in the garden. Order from the Lebanese side of the menu. There are antiques for sale in the back and if your nice or cute he might open up the boutique for you after dinner. If you see a bus load of tourists in the dining room you should probably return on one of the nights when the place is empty...
La Reina de Itzalana
Santiago Market
57 x 72
They are not called tacos but the local fast food here is excellent. Five years ago when we were building our first house we ate here 3 or 4 times a week. The panuchos and salbutes are the best. All the tamales are great. I like the simple consume more than the lime soup but they are both exceptional. The fresh fruit aguas and liquados are great. There is a decent ice cream stand a few steps away toward the church. Open in the early evening til late at night.
64 x 59
If your looking at the wonderful art deco Teatro Merida you'll miss out on the best Italian food downtown. Across the street Pane e Vino offers honest Tuscan food in a bohemian atmosphere with a mix of locals, expatriots and tourists. I am never sure if the owners are still cooking here or not. But since I always order the same things and they are always good I quit asking. The menu is huge and exhausting. In fact my favorite thing to do is sit up front and watch the tourists read the menu. They flip the dirty pages of the menu on the stand. They look at unpainted walls and the rustic floors. They waddle off to somewhere nicer. It may or may not be cleaner that will poison them for sure. I assume it's the menu and dirt that scares them off and not me hissing at them. I like the ragu sauce on gnocci or tagliatelle. I loved loved loved the panacoti until they changed the sauce from caramel to insipid black berry.
after dinner stroll around the zocalo or visit the Olimpo art gallery. In the corner to the right of the front door of the Olimpo are posted the current cultural events for the month.
Update Oct 2009
The owner doubled the rent in the middle of a tourist/financial crisis so Pane y Vino has relocated to a cleaner, prettier, bigger and I suspect cheaper location 2 blocks away. No longer in front of the Teatro Merida now in front of Telmex they now offer a lunch buffet which I'm 99.9% sure should be avoided. Hopefully they are still fresh pasta to order in the evenings and I'll check it out one day....soonish.
La Casa de Frida
61 x 66 y 66a
The owner recently gave up on having a huge menu and I can only say amen sister! Now you can sit in the courtyard and enjoy the homage to Frida decor although you can no longer enjoy the stars. Now there is a plastic roof over the once open patio. Chiles en nogada and mole are the things to order. The service has vastly improved.
before dinner you can shop at the real "Casa de las Artesanias" on calle 63 x 64 y 66 until 8 pm. Here you'll get a good idea of what you can expect to find in all the shops and here the prices are fixed and fair.
Alberto's Continental
64 y 59
It's been 3 years since Hurricane Isidoro wiped out the giant rubber trees that shaded the colonial courtyard of Alberto's. They've grown back and now you don't have to rely on the owners charm alone to enjoy a drink in the garden. Order from the Lebanese side of the menu. There are antiques for sale in the back and if your nice or cute he might open up the boutique for you after dinner. If you see a bus load of tourists in the dining room you should probably return on one of the nights when the place is empty...
La Reina de Itzalana
Santiago Market
57 x 72
They are not called tacos but the local fast food here is excellent. Five years ago when we were building our first house we ate here 3 or 4 times a week. The panuchos and salbutes are the best. All the tamales are great. I like the simple consume more than the lime soup but they are both exceptional. The fresh fruit aguas and liquados are great. There is a decent ice cream stand a few steps away toward the church. Open in the early evening til late at night.
Restaurants Near Ermita & San Sebastian
There's not much of anything in this area of town. At night there are several good fast food stands around the corner of calle 77 y 70. Most days on calle 81 between 66 & 68 there is a man standing on the sidewalk or edge of the street grilling chickens . They are fantastic. You could picnic in the park and buy your drinks on the corner of calle 66 and 77. There's a new cocina economica on calle 75 and 64 and another on calle 77 and 62 but I've not tried them yet...going soon.
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